On a beautiful autumn weekend, you climb an exposed arête. The sun warms the wall and makes the valley shine with its flamboyant autumn colours. Around you, ecstatic climbers take advantage of the absence of mosquitoes to propel themselves up several meters of biting granite. The afternoon light is superb, it's pure happiness.
If only this magical weather could last a little longer. But no: very soon, the snow and the cold will relegate rock climbing to oblivion until April. Six endless months ahead!
The most addicted will climb limestone far from home, but that’s not everyone. What to do then? You don't need to think much longer before something becomes obvious…
Climbing ice!
Personally, it took me ten years to dare the ice axe. Ten years swearing only by rock. I would tell myself: “Ice climbing looks so predictable. The only challenge is to plant your ice axe almost anywhere and to climb upwards. I would probably freeze my butt off! It's not for me.”
Oh, was I being naive…
After a few outings in intermediate terrain with an accustomed ice climber, I quickly realized that the “plant ice axes just about anywhere” factor is not always that easy. You must find sustainable positions on the ice or else you will be totally pumped within minutes.
That’s a real challenge when the purely vertical ice wall offers you very few steps on which to place your centre of gravity.
The first time he tried ice climbing, Léopold Laliberté-Guy did not find it easy. The founder of La Liberté Nord-Sud mountain school, at Montagne d’Argent, answers my questions.
My first time was in the middle of the night, in Montreal. I found it quite difficult. I pushed too hard. I hit the rock with the blades of my friend’s ice axes. He really wasn’t happy. (Laughs) I had a big adrenaline rush.
At first, it’s possible to get by with only muscle strength, despite a lack of technique. On the other hand, when you start pushing the difficulty level, the movements become comparable to climbing on rock, especially if you climb mixed or delicate ice routes. The positioning of crampons is similar to that of climbing shoes, and ice axes offer many possibilities of movement. They allow us to hold on to narrow edges, where our fingers would not even dare to venture.
I don’t agree. You must read the state of the ice. If both ice axes drop at the same time, you can’t just rely on your feet. The climbing also depends on the thickness of the ice. When you start climbing difficult routes, the conditions vary a lot, and it becomes more and more challenging.
Absolutely.
We have long winters, low risk of avalanches, and a huge territory.
The formation of icefalls depends on weather conditions, and their form can vary from one year to the next. Québec has ice to climb in the alpine, along the Saint Lawrence, along rivers beds, and in quarries. There exists both technical single pitches and easy multi-pitches. Actually, ice climbing sites outnumber rock climbing sites.
A person who climbs rock has a good chance of being comfortable on ice, especially top roping. Some people, on their first day, will send grades 4 and 5, even grades 6. However, when lead climbing, the commitment is much higher. Trad enthusiasts will find a nice extension to their practice that involves commitment and risk-taking.
Depending on your level, an introductory course may be worthwhile. Even if the top-rope belay technique remains the same, we generally use trees to set up anchors, especially when the anchors are covered with ice. It’s a good idea to invest $70 in a half-day ice climbing initiation to see if you like it, before buying $1500 worth of equipment.
Of course, it’s not mandatory to follow an initiation course, but it’s much safer to be guided the first time. I have to say that people often have difficulty with cold management and the layering system. Cold is a big turn-off for them.
In my opinion, the fact that it’s more unpleasant when it’s cold is simply untrue. At -5 or -10 °C, as soon as it’s sunny, you feel relatively warm on the cliffs. This can be true even at -15, as long as there is no wind.
Certainly, and the climbing club La Liberté Nord-Sud is perfect for that. You are accompanied by someone with experience, and you can see lead climbers in action. I recommend that rock lovers who want to try ice climbing join the club for a season. It allows you to get to know the sites.
Within a two-hour drive from Montreal, there are about 40 sites. The closest one is at Parc Jean-Drapeau, on Île Sainte-Hélène. At Montagne d’Argent, with our artificial ice system and our heated cabin, we offer a pleasant experience. Being able to gear-up and prepare in the warmth is greatly appreciated.
My main message is that you shouldn't be afraid of the cold. We have an impressive diversity of areas to climb ice in Quebec. Ice climbing is an extraordinary way to discover our territory and to embrace our winters. People sometimes get discouraged, they see this cold season as a monster and go into hiding.
But winter is beautiful! You must take advantage of it, and ice climbing is perfect for winterly adventures.
Please note: FQME insurance covers members when climbing on FQME affiliated sites.
Here is a summary of the coverage.
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